Canada Camping

When I went camping in Canada knowing I was going camping

This has been my longest trip so far that I attempt to capture for this blog. It is going to be difficult to paint an accurate enough portrait of this whole experience with words, and if I want to keep it real, I’ll need to add some of the not so idyllic aspects that kept it from being absolutely perfect. Mostly, I look forward to my picture selection, as I have probably taken some of my favorite ever photographs during this time (and sometimes a picture is worth more than 1000 words).

As it always is with my intense workload, the Friday before leaving, the notion that I’d be setting foot in Calgary and sleeping on the ground for two weeks in less than 24h seemed absurd and unreal. And as it always is with my intense workload, it took me at least 2-3 days to finally feel like I was there. I arrived completely jet-jagged and not expecting the heat I was received with setting food outside of the airport (this seems to be a common theme in all my travel blog posts this year).
I had been looking forward to this trip for a while, especially since my first (unexpected) camping experience ever one year ago in California had turned out so amazing. And I guess I was used to these things ALWAYS turning out that way, to always end up meeting special, engaging new friends. But this element in particular, at least in the beginning, turned out rather disappointing. Our small group (8 people) was comprised of Germans and Swiss. In itself, that shouldn’t be a bad thing, regardless of my initial desire to get away from the Germanic culture for a while and interact in a more international manner. But at least at first, they all seemed to fit the stereotypical criteria: quiet, a bit stiff. Not a lot of personal questions, not a lot of fun conversation. With a rather apathetic dynamic at first (even Ellie agreed, worrying that they were all just not having fun), I was met with many conflicting feelings and thoughts. Perhaps I was being too judgmental and not open-minded enough. Perhaps it was a matter of time. Then again, isn’t that something I sometimes do? Not trusting my gut, over-rationalizing? What if I was too demanding? What if I just felt some sort of resentment for having to speak German, the “language of work”, during my vacation? I tried to just be myself, but my standard outgoing character and openness seemed rather histrionic in contrast to the rest when it came to communication, and that made me feel extravagant at first. In the beginning, I found reassurance in Ellie and Antonio, though, who both seemed to vibrate at similar frequencies. And then at a later point, I connected with Melanie at an also deeper level and found myself laughing with her to the point of belly soreness.
Eventually, I didn’t care about anything other than being genuine and making the best out of the experience.

As for the actual trip… Nearly every new sight, every new destination left me speechless sooner or later (and I mean the good kind of speechless, not the exasperating shoulder-shrug kind at the sight of waterfalls “ist schön, aber nichts besonderes” or food “haut mich halt nicht vom Stuhl runter”).
Somehow, we ended up sharing tents, which differed from my experience in California. The good part: more speed and efficiency in terms of putting them up and taking them down. The downside: a serious lack of privacy. Still, I managed to get used to it pretty fast. My general attitude seemed to be that as long as I could somehow take a shower every day, I’d be fine, considering the limited time of the experience.

With the help of Ellie and aaaaall the books I managed to get my hands on, I learned so much about the history and geology of the Rockies, about the animal species inhabiting them, their behaviors and patterns, traditions and customs of the native population, and even environmental and political issues. As always, learning is one of the most beautiful aspects of traveling. And it can be done in an introspective, personal level under any circumstances.

It's impossible to write a whole paragraph on 14 days respectively without entering the novel realm, so these are my favorite highlights:

  • The day-long hike from Lake Louise to the Big Beehive, along a forested trail, passing by Mirror Lake and cascading waterfalls, and the shores of Lake Agnes. I got to spot so many different species of mammals and birds. They were everywhere, and it was very wholesome to see that amount of wildlife thriving happy and free. There were many tourists, but the higher we got the more they dissipated. Still, all trails were clean and well-kept and people seemed to be environmentally conscious and respectful as a general rule. As the cherry on top, we even managed to find the owner of a forgotten wallet (thank you, Facebook).
  • Canoeing in Wells Gray. I’d been kayaking before, but never canoeing. And doing so in Clearwater Lake was beautiful and invigorating. As it is the case with any activity involving physical exercise, I felt alive and healthy, which is my favorite way to feel. The air was impeccable and fresh in the early morning hours and once in Cariboo Beach, there was NOTHING to be heard except for the water, the wind and the birds. Needless to say, none of my travels buddies was up for an intentional, engaging conversation, so I ended up deriving it from our local canoeing instructor, the Chilean woman accompanying us and Ellie, which turned out a lot of fun. I got stung by a horse fly right by my jugular with an anatomical precision that made me question whether animals in Western Canada went to medical school as well.
  • Kamloops lookout point. Because that’s where I got to hug Jordyn a year after meeting her in Italy. I got to meet Colby as well, and chatting with them for 40 minutes was just great (and welcomed proof that my troubles to get close with my current group had definitely to do with external, cultural related factors). We reminisced about Italy, updated each other on current events in our lives, talked about future plans and decided we needed to meet up in Europe again. She looked beautiful and seemed so happy. Who would have thought I would actually get to see her and talk to her in person after that last crazy night of running around in Rome, with Clay and his brother and all of our lost minds.
  • The day in Whistler. I already wrote a brief blog post on this one. But mountain biking on my own was exhilarating and exciting and I am glad I didn’t fall off a cliff and hit my head because I don’t know who would have found me. Also, sleeping right next to a river under a full moon was magical. Dinner at that pub was delicious and going out after unexpected, but also fun. I left sooner than the rest to oblige to my pledge of taking a shower every day. After getting an Uber, I walked half a mile to the showers and back by myself, well aware of the existence of bears roaming around camp sites. But I guess that’s the price of hygiene sometimes. I’d rather be clean and dead than covered in mountain bike dirt overnight.
  • Our whale watching tour in Tofino. The day started off rainy and grey. I did NOT feel like freezing my butt on a zodiac for three hours. But once there, in my XXL-sized water-resistant one-piece, facing the natural beauty of the Esowista Peninsula through my wind-proof goggles, I felt a completely different way. More so when we got to see countless groups of sea otters, some gigantic grey whales, a seal colony, puffins… Once again, it was incredibly rewarding and heartwarming to experience these animals in their natural habitat. Undisturbed, protected, numerous and seemingly happy. Plus, as time went by, the weather progressively cleared, turning into a bight, beautiful sunny morning that culminated with us eating out lunch at a beautiful, secluded beach.
  • Long Beach. It was quite a contrast to end up on the Pacific shores after almost two weeks of camping in the mountains. Everyone went surfing except for Antonio (triathlete) and some of the girls, and I. I took my camera and went for a two-hour long walk on the never ending shore, rejoicing in every beautiful detail I could find on the sand, taking pictures of the waves, the birds, the light, the horizon and singing out loud without the fear of being heard. I could observe through my lens how the light changed with the passing of time, and the more passionate tones of blue and orange slowly transitioned into pastel pinks and ocres as the sun went down. It remains a mystery to me how such a place could be that empty. At one point, I found myself completely alone on a vast field of sand, surrounded by the soft shapes of water-sculptured sand formations, rocks, pine trees and the beautiful light of the sunset filtering thought them. I could smell the ocean, feel the breeze. It was the perfect sight, the perfect temperature, the perfect light. That amount of beauty all around me brought tears of joy and gratitude to my eyes. I decided that was going to be one of those moments I needed to put into a small mental flask to take out in those occasions in life where I need to be reminded of how vividly beautiful the world is. Without a doubt, one of the most memorable experiences.

Canada is such an enormous country, and in two hectic, full weeks I’ve only managed to see a tiny portion of Alberta and British Columbia. I can’t imagine the amount of awe evoking places I have yet to discover. I think I am developing a deeper love for (North American) national parks in general, as so far, they seem to have such an impact on me. It’s the raw, ancient natural beauty. The contrast between the harshness on winter and the gentleness of summer and the beauty in the resilience of all these species to survive and thrive through it all (as long as they remain undisturbed). I wonder about Yellowstone, Alaska… There are many places I’d like to see and at least for now, it looks as though I might be able to keep traveling this way for a while.

Overall, I feel regenerated. I am very happy to have met Ellie and my new Melanie (H.), who have inspired me, and who have managed to bring out that side of me I love the most with their humor, outlook and general positivity.

PS.: I did end up breaking my shower promise, as I skipped it on the last day, after getting back from Victoria to our campsite to find a settlement of 3 loud families, their babies and dogs right next to our tents. I flew back the next afternoon. Time difference, jet-lag and general confusion make calculations a bit difficult, but if I’m correct at least 55 hours went by before I could set foot on a shower. Last time that happened I was 8, spending the night in Las Mercedes with school. I suffered a lot that day and my mom had to pick me up early.

A Day in Whistler

I couldn’t wait to be back home to write all about this day. I’m loving West Canada for many reasons, but I can already tell today is going to be one of the highlights. It deserved a blog entry all to itself.

I woke up early in the morning to the sound of Fitzsimmons Creek right outside my tent. And for the first time, with the help of an extra mattress, I did so not sooner than my alarm. NO new mosquito bites (yet). Enjoyed a delicious granola based breakfast crowned with peanut butter, banana and berries, and had a fun time washing dishes with Lukas (as far as washing dishes can go). Then, upon returning with our clean silverware and a bladder on the verge of bursting, we heard Ellie's command to “stay where you are, don’t come any closer. There’s a bear!”. We were all so confused. We had locked all of our food and toiletries away! There was the van, and the trailer and all those bear boxes. What could have possibly attracted the animal to our campground? The situation was peacefully resolved by a camp worker and his big old anti-bear air horn.

Ran to the toilets, got dressed, rushed to my tent, opened my backpack to get ready... and there it was. A five day old corncob, half wrapped in tinfoil. Yellow, mushy, and yes, hella stinky. I would like to take this occasion to thank the spirits of the Canadian National Parks for protecting me and everyone around me from the consequences of my occasional forgetfulness and unconscious neglectful ways. Got a few frowned eyebrows for that one, but at least I wasn’t ostracized.

Once in Whistler Village, more or less by chance, I ended up with a full suspension Rocky Mountain mountain bike from Comor. And more or less by chance, I found myself alone on the Zappa Trails at Lost Lake —according to their website, “a great place for an introduction to cross-country mountain biking for all ages”. Indeed, unexpectedly, I was beaming away, speeding up and down meter-wide dirt and pea grave trails framed by pine trees, wildflowers and berries, barely crossing paths with anyone else, hearing nothing but the sound of the wind, the birds and my own breathing for hours on end. I thought mountain biking had to be extreme, dangerous and that I’d feel unsafe or uncomfortable. But what I felt while floating over rocks and bumps that would have otherwise knocked me over on a road bike was nothing but exhilarating. I realized what the girl at the shop meant when referring to full suspension as “good fun”. I knew that I was having it in the moment, but it’s only now in retrospect that I realize how intense that was, and how much I wanna do it again!

I enjoyed Ellie’s veggie spaghetti sitting on a fallen trunk right by the very blue stream (I know all about glacial flour now!) and proceeded to bike my way to my original plan: the Valley Trail. It was a nice ride with beautiful sights to Green Lake and a central perspective of all surrounding mountain sides. Some of the scenery evoked stingy flashbacks of Lake Lugano and the trail between Zug and Bern. But other new and exciting elements such as a floatplane and a snake rushing to cross the paved path just ahead of me reminded me of the novelty of this place at every level.

I wrapped up the experience with a well deserved Cake Batter Cookie Dough Blizzard and a stroll back to Riverside Campground, where I’m currently typing these words. Red, filthy and sweaty but very happy, once again listening to the sound of Fitzsimmons Creek right outside my tent.

I really love Whistler. The drive here from Wells Gray yesterday already blew me away. And I have the feeling I’ve only seen but the tip of the iceberg. Of all of the places I’ve discovered in the past few years, I couldn’t mind coming back to this particular one in the future.

Merry Maryland

Still puffy eyed after Jamie’s long, warm and also tearful hug outside of Baltimore-Washington International Airport, armed with a newly acquired AC resistant hoodie and a bag full of snacks, I am about to catch a flight back to reality, with a brain bursting with half-processed new experiences and memories.
It’s been a week, but it definitely feels more like a whole month.

After a hilarious welcome WhatsApp combo and an awkward exchange with a very flirtatious customs official, Jamie and Elle kidnapped me at this same airport late at night what feels like an eternity and a half ago. I had one job: to fall asleep and “recover from the surely exhausting long journey” to the carefully curated soothing playlist they had prepared. But I failed miserably. How couldn’t I? After seven months, there were just too many things to catch up on. There was a delicious peanut butter-jelly sandwich and pasta salad, the American highway, all the diners, all the boats, the full moon, the amusement parks... They would have had to use elephant tranquilizer to put me down.

Upon arrival, we were warmly welcomed by Jamie’s wonderful mom. I vaguely remember seeing the biggest hotdog tomatoes of my life resting on the kitchen counter, then found myself in the largest, most tastefully decorated, private bedroom I’d ever been in. Just after saying goodbye to Jamie and before hitting the AMAZING mattress, I heard Kay’s soft steps approaching from the other end of the hallway. Her beaming smile and cute Bambi pajamas put the perfect ending to a beautiful beginning.

I still remember what it felt like to wake up to those views. Soft, warm morning light, gorgeous water front with private dock and two shining boats. A background of lush nature, clear skies. My jaw dropped so low I had to drag it around on the floor during the first waking hour. How was this even real? How did I end up there? Paradoxically, it was like waking up to a dream. And a dream is exactly what the rest of the week felt like.

So many things happened I could not put my hand on fire to swear on the order of things. I just know that even in those moments we did absolutely nothing, our days were full: full of sunshine and humid summer air, full of laughter, full of delicious food, full of heartfelt of just fun conversation, full of togetherness, harmony, love, family and friendship.

The first half of our first whole day together we hung out by the pool. At the barbecue hosted by her parents that afternoon, we met Jamie’s neigbours and family, including her grandma: an accomplished, very elegant woman with a fascinating aura, stunning artistic talent, and a surprisingly youthful and cheeky sense of humor, whose life work decorated most common areas of the family’s homes we had the pleasure of visiting. It was fun but also intimidating to meet so many people at the same time, and I didn’t think the day could get any more intense than that, but then the most magical thing happened: hundreds of flickering fireflies appeared at dusk, making everything look like a reflection of the beautiful night sky above just inches over the ground. It filled my heart with joy and awe in a similar way the Northern Lights did last October (minus the tears). I remembered Owl City’s “Fireflies”:

You would not believe your eyes
If ten million fireflies
Lit up the world as I fell asleep
'Cause they fill the open air
And leave teardrops everywhere
You'd think me rude but I would just stand and stare

I'd like to make myself believe that planet Earth turns slowly
It's hard to say that I'd rather stay awake when I'm asleep
'Cause everything is never as it seems



Eating crab is not something I ever thought I’d do, not to mention opening it myself with my bare hands and using the primitive force of a crab mallet (and my teeth, but based on everyone’s reaction, this seems to be something NOT to be proud of). Even the whole experience around it was priceless, hanging out at Doc’s Sunset Grille while listening to live music and watching a live hotdog eating contest, plus enjoying a beautiful rainbow sitting on the grass by the creek wearing our Powerpuff Girls style matching Oxford t-shirts.

Driving to Potomac to drop off Kay at the airport on Friday was bittersweet. We enjoyed the long car drive, the talking, the singing, the laughing… but we’d miss her wisdom, relentless energy and sense of humor on our last day.
We had dinner in Washington DC that evening, rejoining Nicole and meeting one of her friends, and having the pleasure of seeing Megan again after our Amsterdam trip early this year. Crazy to think this actually happened, that I got to see her so soon again. “Is this a special event?” is what our waitress asked while pointing my camera at us. I told her we were celebrating Friendship Day. And so it seemed: an impossible astronomical alignment that brought Jamie, our common Greece friends, her family and my friend together around that table.

But not everything was rainbows and butterflies (in this case meant quite literally). Just like some of the lessons learned and solidified.
The turmoil unfolding in my heart, the sadness entering it since I decided to crack it open. I cannot think about it without tears filling my eyes, and so their shed amount on account of these feelings in the past would have been enough to refill Peachblossom Creek in its entirety at the other side of my morning window. Just like a fruit with a compromised spot, I cut out the part of my heart that was hurting to prevent it from spoiling the rest. And then chopped it into tiny pieces and scattered them in the bay.
There is a hole again. But, according to Rumi, “the wound is the place where the light enters you.” Even though it doesn’t feel like it now, I can only hope the light of everything beautiful that always happens is bright and warm enough to make the missing parts grow back.

I’m midflight now, daydreaming about our next reunion in Madeira, and looking forward to the bright things that’ll hopefully come our way until then.